[T-MEC] crawlr
Terrarian
Introduction
Hello and welcome to the ultimate teleporter hub tutorial! This tutorial will be split into three parts. Part one will cover some basic wiring components that are useful for all kinds of complex designs. Part two will cover teleporter specifics and show how to build teleporter pass-throughs. Part three will bring everything together and demonstrate how to build a fancy, functional, teleporter hub. This tutorial is intended for all skill levels, but a familiarity with binary and basic Terraria wiring principles is required.
Part 1: Basic Components
Diode: The "diode" or "repeater" is the simplest building block component. A diode is simply an AND or OR gate with a single lamp. The input is wired to the lamp and the output is taken from the gate itself.
For clarity, I will always use OR gates for diodes/repeaters. But again, the choice of gate is arbitrary.
Diode's are useful in a number of situations. First of all they allow us to change wire color (useful when compacting designs and working with limited space). Second, they split up the wire and act as a one way door. Activation pulses on the input side (green wire) will ripple through to the output side (red wire), but activation pulses on the output side will not ripple through to the input side. Finally, diode's allow us to generate multiple activation pulses per game tick. When the game evaluates an input, it builds a list of all items connected to that wire. It then goes threw the list and activates each item in sequence. Finally, if any new activation pulses were generated, the process repeats for those pulses (all in the same game tick).
Extender: An "extender" is simply an extra lamp added to a logic gate to provide additional space. For example, if all of your inputs are blue, you could add extenders to your gate so that none of the inputs cross.
You can use extenders with both AND and OR gates (as well as others) but you must be concious of what lamp type you use. For OR gates you need to use OFF lamps. For AND gates you will want to use ON lamps.
Transistor: A "transistor" is a faulty logic gate with a single lamp standard lamp. The input is wired to the faulty lamp, the output is taken from the gate. Whem the standard lamp is ON, the transistor will allow an activation pulse to ripple through similar to a diode. When the standard lamp is OFF, the transistor will not pass any activation pulses through.
Binary Decoder: A "binary decoder" takes a binary input of any size and converts it into another form of output. The most common style of binary decoder you will see are Joe Price's Giant Logic Gates. This approach works well and achieves the same goal, but I recommend you use the simpler "AND-DECODE" approach. The idea is to use a single AND gate for each possible output we are interested in. Add one lamp to each gate for each input bit, alternating between ON and OFF depending on the inputs you care about. For example here is a binary to decimal decoder using this approach:
The nice thing about handaling binary inputs, is that an input of any size can be routed using 2 wire colors as demonstrated above. This often allows for simpler, compact designs. (NOTE: if you add extenders to the binary decoder you could also handle any size binary input using a single wire color!)
Binary Encoder: A "binary encoder" is the polar opposite of a binary decoder. It takes an input of some form, and converts it into a binary output. This is the most complex building block in terms of wiring, so take your time and make sure you understand what it does. In the example below, each of the input switches represents a number 0-7, with 0 being the left most switch, 7 being the right most switch. When you hit one of those switches, the binary representation of the number will be displayed using the three output torches.
Note the current state of the output torches and each transistor lamp. Since our output is three bits, each stack of transistors has three components. The top transistor will adjust the high bit, the bottom transistor will adjust the low bit, etc. The first stack above the "0" switch currently has every transistor disabled. So if we hit that switch nothing will happen. This is correct since the output currently reads "0". If we look at the "3" switch, you'll note that stack above it has the top and bottom transistor active. Hitting switch "3" will toggle the first and last bit, changing the output to a binary 3. Each transistor is connected to its neighbor. This way when we change state, the other stacks know which bits have been changed, and thus keep track of what bits they need to toggle for their desired output.
7-Segment Display: 7-Segment Displays are easy to build using the components we have already discussed. To save some space I'm just going to link to a great YouTube video by TheRedstoneCrafter that shows how to build them and a few various wiring layouts you can use
Hello and welcome to the ultimate teleporter hub tutorial! This tutorial will be split into three parts. Part one will cover some basic wiring components that are useful for all kinds of complex designs. Part two will cover teleporter specifics and show how to build teleporter pass-throughs. Part three will bring everything together and demonstrate how to build a fancy, functional, teleporter hub. This tutorial is intended for all skill levels, but a familiarity with binary and basic Terraria wiring principles is required.
Part 1: Basic Components
Diode: The "diode" or "repeater" is the simplest building block component. A diode is simply an AND or OR gate with a single lamp. The input is wired to the lamp and the output is taken from the gate itself.
For clarity, I will always use OR gates for diodes/repeaters. But again, the choice of gate is arbitrary.
Diode's are useful in a number of situations. First of all they allow us to change wire color (useful when compacting designs and working with limited space). Second, they split up the wire and act as a one way door. Activation pulses on the input side (green wire) will ripple through to the output side (red wire), but activation pulses on the output side will not ripple through to the input side. Finally, diode's allow us to generate multiple activation pulses per game tick. When the game evaluates an input, it builds a list of all items connected to that wire. It then goes threw the list and activates each item in sequence. Finally, if any new activation pulses were generated, the process repeats for those pulses (all in the same game tick).
Extender: An "extender" is simply an extra lamp added to a logic gate to provide additional space. For example, if all of your inputs are blue, you could add extenders to your gate so that none of the inputs cross.
You can use extenders with both AND and OR gates (as well as others) but you must be concious of what lamp type you use. For OR gates you need to use OFF lamps. For AND gates you will want to use ON lamps.
Transistor: A "transistor" is a faulty logic gate with a single lamp standard lamp. The input is wired to the faulty lamp, the output is taken from the gate. Whem the standard lamp is ON, the transistor will allow an activation pulse to ripple through similar to a diode. When the standard lamp is OFF, the transistor will not pass any activation pulses through.
Binary Decoder: A "binary decoder" takes a binary input of any size and converts it into another form of output. The most common style of binary decoder you will see are Joe Price's Giant Logic Gates. This approach works well and achieves the same goal, but I recommend you use the simpler "AND-DECODE" approach. The idea is to use a single AND gate for each possible output we are interested in. Add one lamp to each gate for each input bit, alternating between ON and OFF depending on the inputs you care about. For example here is a binary to decimal decoder using this approach:
The nice thing about handaling binary inputs, is that an input of any size can be routed using 2 wire colors as demonstrated above. This often allows for simpler, compact designs. (NOTE: if you add extenders to the binary decoder you could also handle any size binary input using a single wire color!)
Binary Encoder: A "binary encoder" is the polar opposite of a binary decoder. It takes an input of some form, and converts it into a binary output. This is the most complex building block in terms of wiring, so take your time and make sure you understand what it does. In the example below, each of the input switches represents a number 0-7, with 0 being the left most switch, 7 being the right most switch. When you hit one of those switches, the binary representation of the number will be displayed using the three output torches.
Note the current state of the output torches and each transistor lamp. Since our output is three bits, each stack of transistors has three components. The top transistor will adjust the high bit, the bottom transistor will adjust the low bit, etc. The first stack above the "0" switch currently has every transistor disabled. So if we hit that switch nothing will happen. This is correct since the output currently reads "0". If we look at the "3" switch, you'll note that stack above it has the top and bottom transistor active. Hitting switch "3" will toggle the first and last bit, changing the output to a binary 3. Each transistor is connected to its neighbor. This way when we change state, the other stacks know which bits have been changed, and thus keep track of what bits they need to toggle for their desired output.
7-Segment Display: 7-Segment Displays are easy to build using the components we have already discussed. To save some space I'm just going to link to a great YouTube video by TheRedstoneCrafter that shows how to build them and a few various wiring layouts you can use